some 'peggy' things
To understand a little about how different pegs affect the overall sound of the violin, we need to look at the different materials that they are made from.
Plastic Pegs
These are the worst, to put it bluntly! Plastic pegs are not that common, but they do can come on low budget violin outfits that are ordered online and when the purchaser didn’t know to check. They will never stay in tune as the material can’t grasp the wood of the pegbox. Be careful and make sure that any violin you buy has wooden pegs.
Wooden Pegs
Wood is exactly what you want for the material in your pegs. What is neat is that there are 3 main woods used to make violin pegs, and all of them have a different effect on the sound of your strings and violin.
Wooden pegs are typically made from Ebony, Rosewood, or Boxwood.
Ebony is the hardest wood of the 3 and is the most durable. It is black in color. It also comes with an Endpin and there are small pearl inlays on the outside of each peg.
Rosewood is popular for some because it can produce its own resin, making it easier to grip the wood of the pegbox. It isn't as strong as Ebony and has a good variety of colors in the light to medium brown tones. Again, it is only for a full size (4/4) violin. This color of the Rosewood in this set is a darker brown than some other shades of Rosewood and the pearl inlay is in all 4 pegs as well as the tailpiece.
Boxwood is a general name for a lot of the newer woods being used by modern violin makers. There's a wide range of quality Boxwoods to use and many are considered to be somewhat lighter than the other two. This is the Hill Model and there is a black pin in the end of each peg. There is a distinctive difference in the brown color between this Boxwood peg and the Rosewood pegs.
Beginning violin students don't really need to worry about the type of pegs they have on their violin as long as they are wooden pegs. Most smaller sized violins are tuned using fine tuners on the tailpiece and don't use the pegs. Full size (4/4) violins should always have wooden pegs and when a player has developed the advanced stage, they will want to have the highest quality pegs to achieve the best possible tone quality from their instrument.
An important note about buying violin pegs separately from the violin: they usually do not come with pre drilled holes for the strings to go through, and you must take them to your local violin shop to have the holes drilled in. This is a simple process for a professional. If you don't have anyone near you to do this, then make sure you purchase pre drilled pegs for your violin.
Personal preference is a large component of what makes the best choice of pegs for any violinist. It's really fun to actually go into a violin shop and try out different violins that have pegs made from different woods, so you can see first-hand the difference in sound.
~ adapted and edited from The Best Violin Pegs and Reviews 2019 by Austin, condordini.com, January 3, 2019
6 checkpoints when buying a violin:
@ fine tuners working?
@ solid wood body?
@ proper space btw strings and fingerboard?
@ string grooves laid at proper intervals?
@ ebony, rosewood, or boxwood pegs, fingerboard, and tailpiece?
@ bridge properly curved, esp. for an e string?
Ask the Expert: How to Stop Your Pegs from Slipping
MARCH 25, 2013
Properly functioning tuning pegs are crucial to a healthy instrument
by L. Dalton Potter
One of the first mysteries a string player encounters in the world of instruments and their care is the friction peg. Regardless if you’re a twinkler or a professional on a world stage, string players are always at the mercy of the seemingly endless repertoire of clicks and creaks, indicating an impending “tuning eruption.”
Truthfully, traditional friction pegs work well, provided they were installed correctly and are maintained properly. In our shop, regular maintenance translates into using a bit of peg compound on the pegs as part of the string changing process. This means that every few months the wood of the pegs and the scroll are re-infused with a medium that allows the pegs to both turn smoothly and remain locked in place when they are “pushed home.” Again, the assumption is that the pegs actually fit in the first place, so let’s examine how to go about checking the fit.
After carefully removing a string (remember remove only one string at a time), slide the peg out of the pegbox and hold it up to the light. As you rotate the peg you should be able to see two shiny bands that wrap all the way around the peg without interruption; this where the pegs rub against the pegbox. Continuous contact in this area is a must for the pegs to hold their tuning. These bands are where you apply peg compound. Now, push the peg back into the peghole firmly and turn it back and forth quickly, pull it out and hold it gently against your upper lip. It should feel warm on both of the shiny bands. This means it fits well and you can proceed to apply peg compound and reinstall the string.
If any of the above standards are not met, you should visit your local shop and have them adjust or replace your pegs using professional tools and standards. Another alternative is switching from friction pegs to geared pegs, like those manufactured by Planetary Perfection and Wittner. These pegs should only be installed by a trained luthier.
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